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How You Can Help 'Help Refugees' Sue The Government

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This week, non-profit organisation Help Refugees made serious progress in their two-year fight with the British government to get vulnerable, unaccompanied child refugees safely into the UK. The progress is the permission to appeal the decision of the Home Office to cap the number of refugee children allowed into the UK at 480. This right to appeal, granted by the Court of Appeal, is a huge ray of hope in an increasingly bleak and distressing situation. Help Refugees is crowdfunding the money to finance the appeal; essentially, they’re asking the British public to help them sue the government.

Here’s the context:

In April 2016, in response to the urgent refugee crisis and the mounting pressure from the general public for the British government to do something, a bill called the Dubs Amendment was passed, spearheaded by Labour peer Lord Dubs, who himself entered the UK in 1939 as a 6-year-old refugee fleeing Nazi-occupied Czechoslovakia. The amendment was a commitment by the British government to speak to local councils and find out how many spaces were available across the UK for child refugees. Although ministers were careful not to put a precise figure on the extent of their commitment, MPs were told local authorities were being asked to provide homes for 3,000 children from camps in Greece, Italy and France.

Photo: Mary Turner/Getty Images.

However, the scheme closed promising to resettle just 350 children, a number the councils and the general public felt was far too low. And in the months that the Dubs Amendment was open, during which time the Calais Jungle was destroyed, not a single child had actually been transferred to the UK. Why? Because, as long-term volunteer and child psychologist Evelyn McGregor told us last year, “the UK government isn’t exactly that excited about getting lots of refugees… and so they may be finding other things to do in their office rather than process applications” – something she has to explain time and time again to eager young boys stuck in Calais hoping to enter the UK.

At the time, Help Refugees challenged the British government and Home Secretary Amber Rudd on how she reached that number of 350, and armed with the Freedom of Information Act, did some digging of their own. From their research, they found that 91% of the places offered by Scottish councils had not been included in the 350 number because, as the charity’s communications manager Tom Steadman told us on the phone, “in the confusion after the Jungle was demolished, most of the places offered came after the deadline date [set by Rudd].” Help Refugees spoke to a number of councils and, as Tom explains, “many said the consultation into how many places they could offer was completely puzzling, chaotic, and cursory to the point where they didn’t even realise it existed.”

So because of this pressure from Help Refugees and pressure from the public, in April 2017, “the government was forced to admit that it had missed 130 places in the 350 number, so the number went up to 480, which was a big success,” Tom says, “but we still believe, based on the evidence we gathered, that that number is far too low.”

Photo courtesy of Futuro Berg / Help Refugees.

Fast-forward to 2018 and the government has still only filled roughly 200 of the 480 places they promised under the Dubs Amendment. “So there’s still over 200 places unfilled, while children are freezing and getting teargassed in tents across the border”, Tom says. And many of the children who were 16 when the Dubs Amendment was passed in 2016, have now been aged out of the scheme because the government has been so slow processing claims.

So with the help of human rights law firm Leigh Day, Help Refugees is suing Amber Rudd and the government for capping the number at 480, a figure they believe to be entirely arbitrary. Their right to do this has been granted by the Court of Appeal, which, basically, means they have a case. “It’s not every day the people get the opportunity to take the government to court”, says Tom.

And since this is very much a “people’s case”, Help Refugees is appealing to the public to help finance it. In 24 hours they’ve raised £10,000 of their £30,000 target by crowdfunding, with support from various MPs and celebrities. The deadline for the fund is 24th February – you can donate here.

Help Refugees say there are at least 95,000 unaccompanied refugee children in Europe and an estimated 1,000 refugees in Calais and Dunkirk. In the last month, three people have lost their lives trying to get to the UK – one a 15-year-old boy attempting to reunite with his brother who is living here.

Since the camp was demolished in October 2016, the UK has spent £150 million on security and CCTV at the Calais border, meaning refugees are taking higher risks than ever to get to the UK, and losing their lives in the process.

During the demolition of the Jungle, over 100 children went missing, and nobody knows where they are.

According to Help Refugees, the UK government is spending just £3.6 million on speeding up the process of asylum claims for refugees who have family in the UK.

Photo courtesy of Futuro Berg / Help Refugees.

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Black People Have Been Beefing With The Grammys For Decades

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The Grammys are only a day away, and truthfully, I’m less than excited about them. A new study has confirmed that it only reflects how woefully male-dominated the music industry is, I hate having to sit through all the genres I don’t listen to, and Beyoncé still hasn’t won Album of the Year. The Recording Academy has actually become a foe of mine as I’ve struggled with its rich history of snubbing and pigeonholing marginalised groups. And I’m not the only one. The history of Black people in particular boycotting and protesting decisions made on the “biggest night in music” is lengthy, and worth an exploration.

The Grammys finally decided to include a rap category in 1989, over a decade after hip-hop was created in New York and quickly swept the US as a phenomenon that would later have influence all over the world. The creation of a Best Rap category validated the genre as a staple of American music, but the Grammys undercut their acknowledgement when they decided not to televise the category. As a result, the first group of rap nominees, including Will Smith & DJ Jazzy, LL Cool J, and Public Enemy (the hip-hop group that introduced the world to Flava Flav) ended up boycotting when they should have been celebrating their success. These same artists, and many other '90s hip-hop staples like Salt-N-Pepa, would continue this trend over the next few years as it became increasingly apparent that the Grammys weren’t as invested or in touch with the rap categories.

Jay-Z, 50 Cent, and Snoop Dogg have all made public statements about their disdain and disgust for the Grammys and its continued disrespect of their genre. Snoop has been nominated 17 times and never won a single golden gramophone. Out of 15 nominations, 50 Cent has only won one, and he refused to attend that year to accept it. Despite their huge contributions to their genre and the culture at large, the Grammys just can’t seem to catch the wave. And it’s not just artists themselves that feel some type of way about it. There seemed to be a collective outrage from Black viewers when Macklemore & Ryan Lewis won Best New Artist and three other awards in rap categories, beating out Kendrick Lamar in 2014.

From what I’ve observed, the Grammys seem invested in only uplifting certain versions of hip-hop and Black music culture that fall within the realm of respectability and the white gaze. Writing about Beyoncé losing Album of the Year to Adele in 2017 for the New York Times, Myles E. Johnson said, “If you are a Black person who does not try to be palatable for a white audience, but instead focuses on your own culture and experience, this is seen as a transgressive act.” The politicised themes in Beyoncé’s Lemonade were very much so embedded in the Black experience, and the feeling that she was punished for it nags at many of her supporters. Macklemore’s corny rhymes won out because they was considered more socially conscious and digestible. Migos and Cardi B. are all nominated in rap categories this year, but I doubt they’ll win out over the likes of Kendrick Lamar, who is considered to have more substance. The Grammys have weirdly become the moral gatekeepers of Black art.

The Recording Academy doesn’t just suffer from cultural biases on the musical level. Only in 2016 did the Grammys begin to accept music that was available exclusively via streaming platforms for consideration. How music is shared and distributed is just as important as the kind of music that makes the nominee list. Independent artists and those without the capital investments or backing of record label often have to rely on streaming to get their music out to the masses.

Either way, the outcome of the Recording Academy biases is almost always unfavourable for Black artists, as evidenced in this Vulture list of the greatest snubs. And they have lashed out as a result. Kanye West interrupted Beck’s acceptance speech in 2014 when he won Album of the Year over Beyoncé’s self-titled album. Frank Ocean and Drake refused to even submit their music for consideration in the past two years. Solange tweeted the award show’s history of exclusion after witnessing her sister lose Album of the Year a third time.

The Grammys aren’t ever nearly as white as the Oscars. But they still have their own chequered past and a lot of work to do to get things right.

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New Music To Know This Week: Jhené Aiko, Justin Timberlake, Kassi Ashton & More

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Jhené Aiko feat. Rae Sremmurd "Sativa"

Let's start here: I am a Jhené Aiko fan to the front, back, and around all the corners. I've loved her since the first EP. This track is from her album that came out in the fall, but the visuals here are what we want to take note of. To see her go beyond her earth mother of the water vibe in this video is a real trip; for it to be a Westworld -esque fantasy is beyond. It's no surprise that she'd keep a track named after her favourite strand of weed, but it is interesting to get on her flow and understand just how her head space, of wanting to get out of her head, felt through music. That is no simple feat.

Justin Timberlake feat. Chris Stapleton "Say Something"

If you had told me in 2008 that one day La Blogothèque would direct a Justin Timberlake video, I would have laughed in your face (or given you a sad eulogy with respect to the state of indie rock). Their work is a gorgeous black hole of live performances and video to fall down, if you aren't familiar. Not only is this the best track from Timberlake's forthcoming album so far, it is also all live. Which makes those vocals on the duet especially impressive. Everything about this track is not a direction I would have anticipated. Timberlake has an easy anthem here, the perfect arena song in the version this video gives us. Making it a duet is not what most artists would do. Neither is debuting it as a live performance track. It makes me curious about his album in a way the other two tracks haven't. Fine JT, I'm ready to hear more.

Kassi Ashton "California, Missouri"

Before you hit play, I am going to tell you this is country music. Sort of. Now hit play, and you're going to hear some psychedelic vibes with steel guitar under it and brutal honesty on top of it. This is not your mama's country music, it's barely even your music. It's like I never knew what the phrase brutal honesty really meant before I heard this song; there is love and there is pain all rolled into one. This must have been what Merle Haggard felt like the first time he heard the Flying Burrito Brothers play. It's not country enough for country folk, but it's going to push at their boundaries and make them better.

The Aces "Fake Nice"

Okay, let's clear the decks. There have been some heavy, bordering on mind-bending tracks in my column this week, but sometimes you just want to dance it out. The Aces deliver a track that is perfect for that. Catchy as hell, upbeat, simple pop: this little gem will get you through a traffic jam, through a walk in the park, through a study break while you dance around with your headphones on. There is truly nothing lovelier than a perfectly constructed pop song and this is damn close to being just that.

Mt. Si "911"

And let's close out this week's music picks by going back to where we started: a chill zone. Mt. Si is what some would call an indie rock supergroup and others might just call a side project of one of the dudes from Classixx. I call it music to cry to on the dance floor. Yes, fine, I like to sway while standing in place, maybe spin from time to time, and call it dancing. This track is deceptively tricky, though; there are elements in it (those wind chime sounds, the "ooh" sung like an exhale à la the sounds of Giorgio Moroder and Donna Summer in so many amazing disco tracks) that would sound cheesy in less capable musical hands. It's not the groove that is saving this track, it's the brilliant minds who made it.

After my first job at MTV working as a music programmer, I can't stop trying to matchmake people with music they might like. So, I wrote a book calledRecord Collecting for Girls and started interviewing musicians. The Music Concierge is a column where I share music I'm listening to that you might enjoy, with a little context. Follow me on Twitter or Facebook, or leave me a comment below and tell me what you're listening to this week.

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The Instagram Generation Are Taking On The Classic American Road Trip

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A desert road never felt more alive. #vanlife

A post shared by Shalee Blackmer (@shaleewanders) on

“It was the freest I’ve ever felt,” says 24-year-old Shalee. "There’s no barrier, no timeline, no deadline – your body just feels it.” No, she’s not tripping out, she’s talking about her recent road trip around America in a renovated cargo van. “Sometimes I look back and think it was a dream.” But it wasn’t – it was a life-enhancing adventure. And more of us are making it a reality, too.

Last year, road-trip travel rose 39% in the US and millennials were in the driver’s seat. “The majority of our renters are people aged 25-34 looking for an off-the-beaten-path experience,” says Katie Hubbard from leading US van hire company Escape Campervans. Our generation now makes up 38% of all RV (recreational vehicle) users in the US, while STA Travel has seen a 25% increase in American camper van bookings over the past two years.

Yes, we know: the freewheeling notion of travelling the US in a van is nothing new. But the movement that represented self-sufficiency and freedom for the Beat Generation of the late '50s, and was popularised by the hippy trail in the '70s, is having a resurgence among millennials looking for inexpensive and Insta-worthy experiences. These include 30-year-old Katie, who quit her job in London last year and went driving around America for 90 days in a rusty Chevy camper with her boyfriend Dom. “We were drawn to the rose-tinted nostalgia of endless empty roads, old-school diners, random roadside kitsch shops and just going wherever we wanted, whenever we wanted,” she says.

Taking the pace of life down a few gears is a big motivation for us #busyAF millennials. Julie Murrell, a community manager at Hipcamp (a company that connects campers with private landowners) says she meets many people in their 20s and 30s every week, who’ve bought or rented a van for a multi-month trip around America because they’re “yearning for a tech and city detox.” People like Liz, 32, who says that when you’re travelling in a VW that only goes 50mph, you’re going to slow down, physically and mentally. “I work in tech so, for me, it was about not looking at a screen for as long as possible. Driving for hours without WiFi or phone reception means you get to stretch your eyes. You can’t beat that kind of headspace.”

Although, ironically, social media has been the key driver of the trend. Ever since Foster Huntington swapped his design career for an American adventure in his 1987 Volkswagen Syncro, and started posting photos with #vanlife, the hashtag has accelerated across the 'gram. Now, there are almost 2.5 million #vanlife posts showcasing (mainly) classic vans against beautiful backdrops, with equally beautiful van lifers doing sun salutations by the sea and having campfire dinners under starry skies, with a cute dog thrown in for extra likes.

Likes aside, Shalee says her seven-month trip across 44 states went deeper than aesthesis. “The news can give a depressing view of America sometimes, but I met kind and inspiring people from all walks of life. It showed me that the world is mostly good.” Katch, 29, a wedding photographer from California, loved the lifestyle so much that she and her partner Ben moved full-time into their Mercedes Sprinter. “I’ve learnt that I'm just much happier living a more minimal, less cluttered life.”

For all its stripped-back, Insta-perfect escapism, many experts believe the trend was born out of the recession. “It’s a reflection of the economy and the stunted earning power of many millennials,” says Taj Bates, founder of The YOLO Guide to Travel and the Travel IQ app. Something Lisa, 30, who moved into her van permanently can relate to.

“Law school left me with $120,000 of debt,” she says. “I left my corporate job and now I do legal work remotely while exploring the country. Having to pay for rent helps pay my student loan ­and I still get to do things I enjoy. It turns previous ideas about success and happiness on its head. Yes, I’m sleeping in a van but the world is my living room and every day really is a new adventure. It’s allowed me to embrace a completely new concept of work, travel – and home.”

Experts agree with a significant shift in generational attitudes. “Silicon Valley tech has boosted the trend away from owning ‘stuff’ and more towards valuing our time and shared experiences,” says Justin O'Brien, co-director for student experience at Royal Holloway University in London, who has studied and published on VWs. “Originality and authenticity are at the core of the road tripping lifestyle, which appeals to many millennials seeking to add an affordable, asset-light but experience-rich essence into their life – and their feeds.”

But is it that cheap? “We budgeted $20,000 for two of our six-month trips,” says Liz. “Although we were lucky to have the disposable income to do that.” Shalee argues that it’s the most affordable way to travel. “We bought our 2001 GMC Savana for $2,100 and lived on less than $400 a month,” she says. “Plus, we’re living in a digital age and there’s loads of web-based and freelance opportunities to make money when travelling long-term, if that’s what you want to do.”

The phenomenon has even enabled people including @dontforget2move blogger Christine, 30, who refers to her and partner Jules as “vanlife influencers”, to turn their American road trip into a brand. “Our last trip was to Yellowstone National Park to partner with Michelin tyres on their sustainability program,” says Christine, who has 240,000 followers across her social channels. “Sustainable travel is a huge focus for us. Jules installed solar panels on the roof of our van so we don't need electricity and we've cut down massively on our consumerism and waste. We also have to think of unique ways to get a wash: a dip in a river or ocean, finding a local hot spring or a gym that has free trials. But on the flip side, it encourages us to be outside. Why eat indoors when you can have lunch among the redwood forests or dinner under the stars?” And she has the stunning Instas to prove it.

The social sharing aspect, especially from influencers, has indeed elevated the experience. “It used to be about not-so-cute-to-look-at vans being just a practical way to eat, sleep and explore the open road,” says Taj. “Now, posting polished travel photos in creative, FOMO-inducing ways that rival even the biggest celebs has upped the ante for #vanlife to look even more beautiful and enviable: it’s less hippy, more chic.” And as people race to build bigger followings, #vanlife is also getting slated for creating a hyperbolic version of reality.

But while there are plenty of gorgeous spots to take in from a cosy camper bed along the way, long-term travel in a van or a car isn’t always as glamorous as our feeds might have us believe. “Social media romanticises life on the road,” says Kristen, 34, the blogger behind @BearfootTheory, who has spent 14 months driving around the western US and Canada, mostly solo. “As free as you are, people rarely show the reality of a cluttered and cramped van or the late night, and sometimes stressful, search for campsites, the gas station bathrooms, having to use McDonald's WiFi, the greasy hair, the dirty clothes and being stuck inside because of bad weather.”

Kristen is quick to add that these challenges are also important parts of the journey. “The van is slowly chipping away at the Type-A me, and teaching me to go with the flow. Some of my best experiences have been the unplanned ones, and it’s often the little things like eating a simple, home-cooked meal outside during an amazing sunset, or finding an amazing, secluded campsite. That’s what you live for out here.” There’s also a strong community within those millions of road-tripping hashtags: “#vanlife gets slack for painting an idealistic picture, but as a solo traveller, I know I can reach out to people wherever I am and connect with cool people doing what I’m doing,” adds Lisa.

Bottom line: Whether it’s a way to cut down on living costs, a backlash against corporate life or simply a deep-seated desire to see more of the world, Instagram has repackaged the '70s movement of ditching societal norms, hopping in a van and going wherever the wind takes us – and made it desirable to the mainstream. “Short and long-term road travel gives you the opportunity to experience new places and you learn exactly where your priorities lie,” says Kristen. The best thing it teaches? “That we don’t need a lot to be happy,” says Shalee. “Sometimes the simplest life is the best life."

@lisajourno

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Fenty Beauty Is About To Outsell All The Kardashian Beauty Lines

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Inclusion has always been important for makeup consumers who don't always see themselves represented on the shelves. Since the launch of Fenty Beauty, makeup brands have been falling over themselves to appeal to more customers. But inclusion is more than a marketing trend, and brands are starting to get the message.

According to WWD, the brand will outsell other longer-standing celebrity makeup lines such as Kylie Jenner's Kylie Beauty and Kim Kardashian's KKW in the upcoming months. Online research firm Slice Intelligence found that while Kylie Cosmetics had the highest yearly sales, Fenty Beauty sales in its first month of operation were five times Kylie Cosmetics and 34% higher the following month. Kylie Cosmetics is approaching its two-year anniversary while Fenty Beauty has only launched since September.

Fenty Beauty has also outperformed other successful makeup brands, such as Kat Von D Beauty (both are owned by Kendo and exclusively on sale in Sephora). Of course, many see that the success comes from the way that Fenty Beauty embraces inclusivity within the brand itself and not as simply an afterthought or marketing quirk. On its release, Fenty launched with a wide variety of shades for foundations and highlighters (that Rihanna spent over two years developing to get just right before they hit the market), since expanding to include eyeshadows and lip products. Unsurprisingly, Slice notes that amongst all of the makeup brands examined, Fenty Beauty had the highest amount of Black and Latinx customers.

When asked about the inclusivity of the line, Rihanna mentioned that it was important to her that the foundation shades were made with everyone in mind. "I wanted things that I love. Then I also wanted things that girls of all skin tones could fall in love with," she tells Refinery29. "That was really important for me. In every product I was like: ‘There needs to be something for a dark-skinned girl; there needs to be something for a really pale girl; there needs to be something in-between'."

Enthusiasm aside, this new research only gives us more proof that Fenty Beauty is changing the makeup game for the better.

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Chimamanda Adichie Was Asked If There Are Book Shops In Nigeria & It Is Not Okay

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In an event at the Quai d'Orsay, an annual Night of Ideas held by Institut français, author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie made news when she was asked a seriously inappropriate question that has sparked a conversation on racism and imperialism. Adichie is no stranger to difficult conversations on racism and culture, but this latest incident highlights how much work we still have ahead of us.

As The Cut writes, this is how it all went down: Caroline Broué, the French journalist who led the interview, asked Adichie initially if people in Nigeria read her work. After a response of "They do shockingly,” Broué proceeded to ask the author if there are bookstores in Nigeria.

It was here that the audience couldn't hide their visible shock, so Broué asked again. "You were talking about single stories, now when you talk about Nigeria, in France, unfortunately, there is not much said about Nigeria. But when people talk about Nigeria it’s about Boko Haram, it’s about violence, it’s about security,” Broué pressed. “I should like you to tell us something about Nigeria which is different, talk about it differently, and that’s why I am saying, ‘are there bookshops?’ Of course, I imagine there are."

The exchange has since been posted online, and it has illuminated important points about the kinds of interactions that people of colour in the public eye have to navigate. The line of questions that Broué presented to Adichie was inappropriate, at best, and rooted in anti-Blackness at worst, because they hindered on assumptions that Nigerians would be less educated and less interested in literature than other people.

These comments, though they may seem innocent to someone unfamiliar with their harmful undertones, remind us of the necessity of diversity expanding further than representation. Physical representation of more diversity is getting better on-screen, but many people of colour still have to navigate harmful microaggressions and daily struggles of violence rooted in racial oppression. That has to change.

Adichie's interview at the Night of Ideas has been a necessary reminder for many of us that the work is still not done. In the video below, watch how it all unfolds. The questions begin at the 37-minute mark.

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Your Horoscope This Week

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January goes out with a bang, thanks to the lunar eclipse shining across Leo and Aquarius on the 31st. Nurses and cops love to talk about how nuts A&E gets during ordinary full moons, and a lunar eclipse is like a full moon on steroids. Lunar eclipses happen several times a year. A good way to tell how this one will go is to look back at your life around 7th August 2017 — the last time we had a lunar eclipse in this pair of signs. Some eclipses affect us more than others, so if that one whammed you, expect similar emotions to pop up again. As the moon and sun shine onto one another from across the Zodiac, the people closest to us may be revealed as closet werewolves. We might not be thrilled to see fangs sprouting from their snouts, but if that’s who our loved ones really are, we owe it to the relationship to look.

A lunar eclipse can also trigger conflicts that cause our own true nature to come out. On some level, we’re all werewolves, hiding our ugliest hungers and drives. In Leo and Aquarius, we could be hiding a lust for attention, egomania, or a ferocity to belong at all costs. The longer we hide that self away, the hungrier it gets. Lunar eclipses are about endings; the monster we’re afraid to look at is likely our best escort out of a tired situation.

Aquarius
January 20 to February 18

An ending is headed your way, Aquarius, though you may not know what it is until its lights are shining in your face. An eclipse is a face-off between the sun and the moon, and the sun’s side of this particular tug-of-war is in your sign — a recurring event since 2017. A good way to approach this transit is by taking a look back over the past 13 months to see what areas of your life have been undergoing renovations. (Especially crucial are any changes that happened around last August 7th, since this eclipse will be in that exact same spot.) Aquariuses with birthdays in the first half of February will be most affected, but all of you will be feeling it to some extent. This emo period will likely have you over-idealising the past and convincing yourself things were better than they actually felt at the time.

Mercury enters your sign on the same day as the eclipse, speeding up the pace of day-to-day life and making it as easy to lose yourself in the future’s myriad possibilities as in the past. Mostly, Mercury’s visit should be fun and interesting. Your inclination toward sudden insights gets a boost, and the eclipse may well bring a bolt of understanding. Your subtly stubborn side will likely try to slither out of making a decision, but in this case, ignoring what you don’t like will only make it louder. Whatever wants to go from your life, do yourself a favour and set it free.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Pisces
February 19 to March 20

When the water gets wild, sometimes the best you can do is let your boat drift. The air is zinging with other people's moods, fears, and desires this week, Pisces. No matter what you do, you’re likely to soak in much of that discombobulated collective energy. Let it filter freely through you without feeding it extra attention or fixating on a single part.

However, the eclipse does have a message for you. It may seem lost in the noise at first, but it’s sitting in plain view. An emotion or past action wants you to recognise it as your own. Give yourself time to see what doesn't belong to you and what does. It’s uncomfortable to recognise your selfish side, but compassion and forgiveness are magic ingredients that can turn pain into love.

Toward the end of the week, an exuberant encounter between friendly Venus and your co-ruler, big ideas Jupiter, will have you looking at your relationships (and finances) through rose-coloured glasses. Again, a little drifting may be useful. Make time for happy socialising, but hold off on promises or plans of lasting consequence.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Aries
March 21 to April 19

When the ground shifts beneath our feet, it’s tempting to leap into action. For you, Ram, doing is being and it’s hard to feel in control while standing around waiting. Wednesday’s eclipse could deliver a major insight in one quick blow. Your first assessment is likely to be correct, but that doesn’t mean you know what to do about it yet.

With Mars, your ruling planet, in cart-before-the-horse Sagittarius for the next few months, your impulses are liable to get ahead of themselves. Just because you own a hose doesn’t mean you need to use it to put out a candle. Doing so will only replace a small fire with a large flood. Likewise, telling someone how wrong they are may enlarge a conflict and make it harder to understand. Dodge an oversized response by finding a more constructive use of your fiery energy. Grab onto one of the twenty zillion project ideas you’ve got floating around or go for a run. The wiser course of action will appear once you’ve blown off the excess steam.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Taurus
April 20 to May 20

How nice would it be if the people you depended on always came through, and the ones you trusted were steadfast, real and reliable? In this imperfect world, others’ issues can complicate your life beyond what you want to accommodate. Friendship and love often push you to choose between preserving the relationship and maintaining your peace of mind. When people disappoint you, the easy path is denial, pretending it isn’t happening, or that you’re happiest taking care of your business alone anyway. Unfortunately, this is more of a stalling tactic than a solution, since problems almost always reappear. Wednesday’s eclipse asks you for a challenging dose of self-honesty in your key relationships, including willingness to act on what you see.

On Saturday, Jupiter, the planet of big hopes, squares off with relationship-queen Venus, your planetary ruler. This combination will make it tempting to smooth out the rough edges and continue along as if nothing happened. You can use the same influence to increase your faith in the possibilities of love in your life. What unhelpful beliefs are freezing you in place? Let go of the old and focus on building up the relationships you really can count on.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Gemini
May 21 to June 20

Every so often, the universe passes you a cheat sheet with the answers to every question on the quiz. This Wednesday’s eclipse is one of those times, Double Fine. Crucial information might trickle your way in the form of gossip or a random association triggered by overheard conversation, the news, or your Instagram feed. No one’s going to make you use this cheat sheet to ace the test. You can crumple it up and score a three-pointer on the trashcan. You can, like one of my fourth grade classmates, roll it up with scotch tape, smoke it and spread rumours about how high you got.

With your ruling planet, mental Mercury, entering Aquarius on Wednesday as well, the gift of out-of-the-blue insight is paired with monumental distractibility. The more you understand, the more you’ll want to research and question your findings, in search of an elusive final answer. That’s good, so long as it’s helping you improve your ideas and listen better. It’s a problem if it becomes a form of escaping what you’d rather not have to deal with. So if the universe does whisper the answer in your ear, do yourself a favour and turn that baby in.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Cancer
June 21 to July 22

Embrace your inner boundary queen, Cancer. The week starts off with serious Saturn tamping down your ruler, the emo moon. You can think of this as a cold wall to keep others out, or a secure container, supporting work within. Either way, it’s a good time for checking in with yourself and spending QT with your number one (you). You’ll need that grounded energy when Wednesday’s eclipse rolls in.

Lots of people don’t feel eclipses unless they pass over an important point in their own birth chart. You’re the exception to that rule. As the Zodiac’s resident feelings expert and with the moon as your planetary ruler, you get swept up in every one of the universe’s mood swings. This is partly because other people tend to see you as a shoulder to cry on; whatever drama your loved ones are leaking spills onto you. Your spidey senses are liable to be going haywire the whole week as the collective interpersonal mess bubbles over and soaks everything. Just because you’re sneaker-deep in sticky feelings, doesn’t mean they belong to you, though. Nor are you your best friends’ mummy, tasked with fending off their personal villains. It will be easier than usual to take on other people's anger and hurt. It may also be tempting to project your anger and hurt onto your loved ones, urging them to fight when they’d rather take their crises in stride. It will be hard to find that grounding alone time you need, so keep in mind that every action doesn’t require an instant reaction.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Leo
July 23 to August 22

Welp, Leo, it really is all about you. With the lunar eclipse in your sign, you’re at the centre of the action — the source and recipient of the drama. As per usual, being a superstar comes with its share of good and bad. The bad news first: You've got to let it go. I can’t tell you what it is, but it's probably not wearing a clown suit. A loud costume might make it easy to spot, but fact is, it will be loud and stompy enough that you’re sure to know when you see it. Eclipses bring surprises we could not have seen coming, even if we were sleuthing our hearts out. Lunar eclipse surprises are the kind after which nothing can be the same, which also means that whatever friend, lover, job, or bad habit (or all of the above?) that you’re breaking up with, there is no getting back together. The good news is shorter but also sweeter. Endings make space for new beginnings, and saying ta-ta to lose-lose propositions means making space to find your true winner.

Oh, and before you get paranoid about homicidal clowns jumping from the bushes, check your texts to see what was happening for you last August 7th. (Leos with birthdays in the first two weeks of August will get the strongest hit.)

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Virgo
August 23 to September 22

The worst curse that can strike you, Virgo, may be confusion. It sucks to know something is up and have no clue what it is. The good news is that any information you get this week is likely to be accurate. That said, it may come in forms you wouldn’t take seriously, like overheard conversation or an unexpected connection that sparks in the back of your mind when you’re focused on a task. Treat any clues you receive like a respected visitor, giving them your full attention and taking what they have to say seriously. Fact-checking is commendable, but don’t ignore what you see by overthinking the obvious. You may be required to make a micro-adjustment to your outlook or understanding of a situation or relationship.

It’s possible that the problem is bigger and that one of the moving parts in your life is damaged irreparably. If that’s the case, grease up and get it out before it takes down the whole machine. Removing broken parts is the first step to repair. As much as it sucks to take the piece out, you’ll feel that much better when your life is back to smooth, working order.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Libra
September 23 to October 22

Your happiest memories likely centre around the person who was laughing and smiling along with you. It’s a gift to value relationships, Libra. Love, unlike winning a prize or being voted most popular, really can make you happy. But the people you choose don’t always hold up their end of the bargain — and they might not understand that it takes two to tango.

Wednesday’s eclipse can make you feel extra nostalgic for the past lives of your relationships, those most treasured memories that reinforce your story about what the bond means. It’s not that those stories are wrong per se, but they’re likely incomplete. Later in the week, romantic Venus, your sign’s ruler, bumps into myth-making Jupiter. While these two best friends are getting each other drunk on love, it will be tempting to excuse what you don’t like. Be open to viewing the other side of your favourite memory or person. The two perspectives will balance out, once they get equal attention.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Scorpio
October 23 to November 21

You have a knack for seeing the shadow-selves that others are hiding, Scorpio, and a gift for getting them to shape-shift into truer forms. Sometimes, though, you coax them into changing their behaviour in a way that’s just more comfortable for you. This week, the deck is stacked in favour of your better intentions. With humanity-loving Jupiter whispering in the ear of your planetary ruler, goth girl Pluto, you’re more interested in working magic for the collective good than for your own, black-eyelinered ends. Meanwhile, your co-pilot planet, Mars, is in holy Sagittarius, filling you with the conviction of a seeker on an important quest.

There are plenty of people around you who will be struggling to take in complicated insights, and others who will be pushing their inner monsters back into hiding. With some precautions, you can be a guide across this mini River Styx. First, don’t change someone else to avoid changing yourself. Second, be honest about your intentions. Transformation is like sex: For it to be good for both parties, seek out open, enthusiastic consent.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Sagittarius
November 22 to December 21

Hope is a beautiful thing — and faith is even nicer. We have to believe in a possibility before we can bring it into being. Believing in a kid gets her to grow; believing in a student makes him want to learn; and believing in a lover allows their heart to open. On the other, less popular side of faith, though, is the let-down: Your cute baby grows up into a mean-spirited jerk, your student drops your class, and your lover takes their patched-up heart onto another relationship, leaving you in the dust.

Wednesday’s eclipse will likely stir up fond feelings that put a soft-focus over those historical let-downs, and may have you waxing nostalgic over a past relationship that sucked at the time. By the weekend, a collision between your planetary ruler, high hopes Jupiter, and gentle Venus will make it hard to remember what exactly that suckage was. (This can affect present-tense relationships, too.) Refriending your Facebook frenemy might be useful, if it helps you get more clarity. And hey, maybe you were wrong before. It happens. Keep at least one foot on the ground, though, by not making any promises or big plans until you’ve given yourself enough space to be informatively disappointed.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Capricorn
December 22 to January 19

There’s a line between taking care of business and becoming your work ethic’s lonely captive. On Sunday, rule-setting Saturn, your planetary ruler, faces off with the sensitive moon. The following weekend, those planets collide again. This conflict — work vs. home, feelings vs. self-discipline, nurturing relationships vs. boundaries — is this week’s defining inner dialogue. Getting anywhere over the next few days depends on understanding how these two sides of yourself fit together. Your habit is likely tipping the scale in favour of the tough stuff, like discipline and boundaries, since that’s where you feel most in-charge. If you go too far in that direction, though, your home and inner life will get too noisy and needy to get work done.

Wednesday’s eclipse lands smack-dab in the middle of this kerfuffle, suggesting that your inner monster (or just your feelings) requires productive attention. Noticing what’s off in your life is a good start, but you have to follow through with enough effort that the people around you can see that you’re trying. Open your process up so the people closest to you can participate. It might be scary, but the hard part is just giving up the illusion of control.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

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Female Directors Win Big At Sundance

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We're just a few weeks into 2018, but it's already been a big year for women filmmakers. At the Golden Globes, Natalie Portman called out the lack of female directing nominees. This week, Lady Bird 's Greta Gerwig became the fifth — that's five in 91 YEARS — woman to get a Best Director nomination at the Oscars. And as of this weekend, some up-and-coming talents have staked a claim for a place in Hollywood her-story.

For the second year in a row, a woman has taken home Sundance Film Festival's Directing Award in the Dramatic category. As Variety reports, Sara Colangelo won for helming The Kindergarten Teacher, which stars Maggie Gyllenhaal; Beach Rats ' Eliza Hittman won in 2017.

Gyllenhaal was quick to congratulate her director on Twitter, calling her work "exquisite."

Women dominated many of the top prizes, with The Miseducation of Cameron Post, directed and co-written by Desiree Akhavan, winning the Grand Jury Prize for its portrayal of gay conversion therapy. The film stars Sasha Lane and Chloë Grace Moretz.

Christina Choe was honoured with the Waldo Salt Screenwriting Award for her script for Nancy, a psychological drama starring Andrea Riseborough as an imposter who fashions a web of lies. In the US Documentary competition, the Directing Award went to Alexandria Bombach for On Her Shoulders, while Shirkers ' Sandi Tan won the Directing Award in the World Cinema Documentary category.

One can only hope that this translates to further recognition for women filmmakers, particularly concerning high-profile award shows like the Golden Globes and Oscars. Quite frankly, five women in 91 years simply isn't good enough.

Click here for a full list of all 2018 Sundance Film Festival winners.

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At The Grammys, Celebs Add Colour To The Time's Up Movement

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For an awards show whose history boasts some of the boldest, most unforgettable fashion moments — one whose red carpet is just as entertaining as the show itself — the Grammys had a lot to live up to this year. And no, we're not talking about Beyoncé. With awards season becoming increasingly political, the outfits celebrities choose to wear have become more important than ever. Okay, now we're talking about Beyoncé.

From Queen Bey to the other B — Cardi, that is — music's biggest stars stepped out in the only way they knew how — more really is more. It's no small task for celebrities and their stylists, and it's a mindset that's basically a prerequisite for the big night (with some stars wearing several looks throughout the show). For those of us whose eyes are on the fashion and politics (via white roses and Time's Up pins, of course, which saw an added dose of colour to both movements), the most talented in music brought it — and then some. But hey, no surprise there considering the event was hosted in the fashion capital of New York City.

Ahead, you'll find our favourite looks from this year's Grammy awards. Some stars played it safe, some ventured out of their comfort zones and felt the music, so to speak, but — perhaps most importantly — they backed up their statement fashion with some pretty serious knowledge of what's going on in and out of their respective industries. And there's nothing more stylish than that.

Lana Del Rey
If you fancy yourself a Hollywood movie buff, you caught Lana Del Rey channelling Austrian actress Hedy Lamarr tonight. This dusty pink Gucci number was as ethereal as her dreamy tunes, with just enough glamour.

Lady Gaga
A skirt for days, a strong shoulder, a leg slit, a Time's Up pin, and a white rose — and in Armani, no less. We’ve come to expect nothing but major moments from Lady Gaga, but we have to admit, a small part of us does miss her steak and eggs days…

Emmylou Harris
To accept her Lifetime Achievement award, singer-songwriter Emmylou Harris wore a black dress with gold embroidery (and coordinating jacket). It was a look that stayed true to her country roots, and was an ideal choice for someone who's been the leading style icon for her category for, oh, 40 years.

Janelle Monae
Is that Janelle Monae? In...colour? Though it may be just a pop, she shut down the carpet (as usual) in a Dolce & Gabbana suit that may see her dipping her toes in a more vibrant palette from here on out. Black and white, rainbow — whatever — Monae upheld her fashion prowess tonight.

Cardi B
While the rap star’s engagement ring may have stolen the show during her red carpet interview, we couldn’t get over Cardi B’s epic Ashi gown. The Beirut-based couture house lucked out with the “Bodak Yellow” songstress and could soon be dominating award shows all over the world.

Kesha
Kesha made her “animals” proud tonight. When the West Coast pop star dropped the dollar sign and returned to centre stage, she brought with her a new lease on life — and a brand new look, too. This deep blue suit by Nudie was a calm, refreshing take on her rock 'n' roll roots.

Chrissy Teigen
When it comes to Chrissy Teigen, if you’re reading this, you’re already late. Okay, we’re just kidding, but if you missed her look on tonight’s red carpet, stop reading this and rewind your television sets right now. The newly expecting actress wore a glistening Yanina Couture gown that had enough sheen to be seen from space.

Rita Ora
Wearing Ralph & Russo, songbird Rita Ora kept things classic and streamlined tonight, despite the wavelike silhouette of her dress. We hope to see more of these Old Hollywood vibes from the “Proud” singer from here on out.

Eve
There were more than a few suits on the Grammys' red carpet tonight, but no one quite did it like Eve. In a dazzling pinstriped get-up by Naeem Khan, the rapper blew our minds (and yes, that was a pun).

SZA
For her first night as a Grammy nominee, singer SZA kept things fairytale-like in a Versace gown that turned heads. It’s a befitting choice for someone whose hard work and persistence has turned her career from dream to red carpet reality.

Andra Day
The category? Corporate Realness. Singer Andra Day slayed the carpet tonight in a Victoria Hayes suit-dress hybrid that may not be perfect for an actual boardroom (though Patsy Stone may fight you on that), but was a message well-received by those of us who see a future with more female CEOs and women in office.

Camila Cabello
Was it just us, or was Camila Cabello channelling Jessica Rabbit on tonight’s red carpet? Well, whether it was intentional or not, the “Havana” singer took the classic red dress move to the top of the fashion charts with a sweetheart neckline number from Vivienne Westwood that was a welcome dose of variety among a sea of crewneck numbers.

Miley Cyrus
It’s been a minute since we’ve seen a Jean-Paul Gaultier look off the catwalk, even at an event as larger-than-life as the Grammys, but Miley Cyrus brought the French couturier back and we loved every second of it. The clashing of militant details with the glamour of a classic, black dress made for a powerful red carpet moment.

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What 7 Women Really Eat When They're Sick (& Why It Matters)

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As we come to the end of January, let's cut the nonsense about food shall we?

This past month's stream of celebrity "detoxes" and wellness guides has been trying to sell you the silly idea that certain foods make you a better, "cleaner "person. A quick flick through #foodporn on Instagram and you could be convinced that it's just what food looks like that matters (glitter cappuccinos, what even are you?). In fact, a mildly concerning new trend out of Silicon Valley might even see the end of food as we know it, thanks to some bright spark who decided to replace dining with nutrient-heavy "MealSquares".

When we make our really important food choices – when we're down and really need to eat something that's going to make us feel good – does Gwyneth or Instagram really matter? When we're sick, for example, is the food that makes us feel better nourishing because of its nutrient content, or are there other reasons it makes us feel good?

We asked seven women from very different places to share what that meal is and why it makes them feel so good. Wellness and food trends usually ignore the emotional connection we have to our food but if these stories are anything to go by, it might be worth taking a moment to remember why and how food can make us feel better, before we begin another year of detoxes and unicorn Frappucinos.

Nina

White bread toast with marmite, cut into four triangles

My ultimate recovery food when I’m sick is Marmite on toast: it must be white bread and unless it’s suffocating under offensive amounts of butter and marmite, I’m not interested.

This started when I was a kid and my mum used this food equivalent of wallpaper paste as a litmus test to see if I was on the mend after a bout of sickness, usually owing to whatever sticky-handed snot disease I had brought home from school that week. She would remind me: “If you can keep Marmite toast down, you can have dinner later.” And I really liked dinner.

Today, despite being the adult who has to buy the bread, toast and butter it myself before dragging my only marginally less snotty body onto the sofa to eat it, as soon as I’m there with the four little viscous triangles in front of me, I’m suddenly 7 years old again. I close my eyes and I’m wrapped in a Disney duvet, being showered with a level of affection that flatters whatever amateur dramatics I’ve put on to ham up the illness. The toast is a time machine to an era when adulthood was a foreign land; when council tax and knowing the difference between bio and non-bio washing powder simply was not my problem.

A word of warning, though; if you’re actually still sick and you eat Marmite on toast and vomit it back up, let me tell you – it isn’t pretty.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Yoana

Lemon juice & honey

When I'm sick I always have to have lemon juice with honey three times a day. I squeeze a whole lemon in a cup, then add a teaspoon of honey – it's a bit sour and people that don't like sour tastes might not like it, but to me it is so, so refreshing. When I was growing up in Bulgaria my grandmother would always give it to me when I was sick, and I can definitely say it helps. As an adult I still don't like taking pills and try to avoid them as much as possible, so my grandma's old trick is my first go-to when I need to tackle a cold. Now I live in London, so I only get to see my grandmother for less than a week a year. Even though I can't be with her when I'm ill anymore, lemon and honey is a good reminder that she's still there for me.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Sass

Hot Ribena and spaghetti hoops on toast (cut into squares) with grated cheese on top

This is my go-to meal when I’ve been poorly and am just starting to get my appetite back. Part of its appeal is that all three ingredients (bread, cheese, spaghetti hoops) tend to be in the house so there is no need to get dressed or, heaven forbid, go outside. The toast has to be cut into small squares (ideally 16 per slice) and then covered in a small tin of s’getti hoops with some grated cheddar on top. It absolutely does not taste the same if the toast is not cut up and has to be served just the way my mama used to make it when I was little. This, combined with a mug of hot Ribena, has saved the day when my life has been hanging in the balance (ie. I’ve had a cold) many a time.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Anna

Homemade lemonade

When I was little, my mum used to always make lemonade when my brother and I were ill. Her mum did the same for her, so it's become a bit of a family tradition. The recipe is one tablespoon of sugar per half lemon, soaked with the rind in hot water before squeezing in all of the juice and topping up with cold water. Because of this it's always a tiny bit warm when you make it and always flat (not fizzy), exactly the way it should be. It's not for the sugar-conscious (please don't try and replace with agave syrup) but it is packed with vitamin C, and ultimately comforting deliciousness.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Rose

Pasta cooked in chicken stock

When I was growing up my dad called chicken "Jewish paracetamol", so when I was a kid he would always make me and my siblings pasta cooked in homemade chicken stock to kick off our chicken-based cure. My room was on the top floor and I still remember the sound of him bringing me up a bowl on a tray; he would even set it like a table for me so I would feel fancy. My dad is such a legend he still offers to bring me food when I'm poorly, but even if I'm at death's door I can still drag myself to the shops to buy stock and pasta. Eating it makes me feel like I'm being looked after like my dad used to – even the smell makes my flat feel more like home.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Katy

Mashed anything

My go-to when I'm sick is mashed anything. When I was a kid my mum would bring me little bowls of mashed turnip and carrot. It's nutritious and easy to swallow if you have a sore throat or are just generally feeling rotten. Soft buttery mashed potato with peas is delicious too – it's like baby food and everyone turns into a bit of a baby when they get sick. Also, every Irish mum insists on making you drink flat 7Up when you are unwell; maybe they do some mammy witchcraft on it while stirring but whatever it is, it works.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

Kirstie

Grandma's chicken soup

I lived with my grandma for three years when I first moved back to London. The minute I came home from work with so much as a sniffle she would knock up some of her homemade chicken soup. With the perfect mix of chicken, root vegetables, potatoes, salt, pepper and those weird little noodle bits that I have never actually been able to find in a supermarket but she just seems to have an endless supply of; knocked up with the relentless love of a grandma… one bowl and I would be feeling tip-top! Great for hangovers too.

Photographed by Anna Jay.

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Update Your Underwear Drawer With These Lingerie Brands

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While it may not be practical or affordable to own only the finest lingerie, there's no doubting the transformative magic of a beautiful set of underwear. You know, the kind that has the ability to make you feel sexy, comfortable and powerful.

Above all else, wearing beautiful lingerie should be about how it makes you feel. "For the longest time, a woman’s relationship to lingerie has been defined by others," Julia Haart, creative director of La Perla, tells Refinery29. "Whether it’s what she reads in magazines or the messages she receives from the men in her life, there has always been someone else telling her how she should dress. We have been so hard on ourselves; we follow trends and seek perfection and we are too afraid to know ourselves."

Until now, that is. Emerging and established lingerie brands are embracing the modern woman's relationship with her underwear, which is, essentially, that it has to work for you – whatever your mood. "I believe in individual expression. A woman who wears what she wants when she wants makes an ultimate statement of freedom. We should feel good about ourselves and choose things that make us feel beautiful and powerful. There is nothing sexier than self-confidence."

Click through to find the lingerie that'll rejuvenate your underwear drawer.

This pilling resistant, super soft bra is your perfect everyday piece. Seamless for invisibility underneath clothes, it'll feel like a second skin.

Sloggi S By Sloggi Silhouette Wired Bra, £32, available at Sloggi

Slip into something more comfortable, specifically this gorgeous silk camisole from Hesper Fox.

Hesper Fox Maia Feather Print Silk Camisole, £120, available at Hesper Fox

We've long been a fan of Love Stories' lingerie offering. From silky finishes in pastel hues and vibrant lacy numbers to the sweetest star and animal prints, it's the kind of underwear you want to show off. Check out their swim- and nightwear, too.

Love Stories Love Lace Quarry Bralette, £52, available at Love Stories

Who knew Accessorize had such lovely lingerie? The offshoot of Monsoon actually has some gorgeous and affordable pieces, in covetable colours. However, the brand's offering mostly focuses on bralettes suitable for smaller boobs.

Accessorize Toni Lace Underband Bra, £14, available at Accessorize

Swoon. Araks creates underwear that feels contemporary and sexy, without a hint of garishness. Founder Araks Yeramyan previously interned at Marc Jacobs, and came from J.Crew before launching the brand, so you know her aesthetic is gorgeous.

Araks Liselott Panty Bell, £53, available at Araks

& Other Stories is our go-to stop for high street underwear. Unfortunately, it only goes up to a 36C, so it's one for the smaller-chested among us, but you can count on feminine trimmings and on-trend shades.

& Other Stories Lace Underwire Bra, £35, available at & Other Stories

Amazon Fashion recently launched its underwear line, Iris & Lilly, and it has all the affordable pieces you'd want. From sporty separates and bras for bigger busts, there's plenty to choose from without making a dent in your budget.

Iris & Lilly Forget Me Not Bralette, £12.47, available at Amazon Fashion

Stella McCartney's lingerie output is pure luxury. Her lacy bodies were made to be worn under a sheer shirt, and she even has frilly knickers of the week. The strap detailing on this navy bra is a winner.

Stella McCartney Lola Adoring Underwire Bra, £74, available at Stella McCartney

Else is an Istanbul-based lingerie brand that's been going for 10 years but has recently garnered fanfare in the UK. Their brand mission? "We believe in underwear that you wear for you – whether that's to make you feel sexy or comfortable." Sourcing all their lace at home, and with the same sized production as when they began, the brand is truly independent.

Else Coachella Brief, £41, available at Else

Of course we want lingerie created by The Body. The supermodel brings a fresh and modern approach to underwear, with contemporary cuts and seasonal shades. Her collections are just as sexy as they are delicate, and we want them all.

Elle Macpherson Body Zest Balconette Underwired Bra, £36, available at Figleaves

The Australian lingerie brand Bonds brings simple, comfortable pieces to your drawer. We love the triangle bras with racing stripes, but this v-neck pastel blue bralette is star of the show.

Bonds Lacies Bralette, £24, available at John Lewis

La Perla sits firmly in the canon of lingerie brands, consistently offering sexy, sweet, want-to-wear-it-on-show underwear. These fuchsia knickers are divine. Hand wash only.

La Perla Leavers Lace Brief, £77, available at La Perla

Les Girls Les Boys is the brainchild of Agent Provocateur founder Serena Rees – and our new favourite underwear brand. Inspired by her daughter's age group's attitude towards body image and sex, the brand's customer is cool, confident and carefree.

Les Girls Les Boys Underwired Bra, £50, available at Les Boys Les Girls

What would a lingerie roundup be without CK? The brand has enjoyed an incredible renaissance in recent years, thanks to blow-up campaigns like #MYCALVINS. This berry pair will be added to our growing collection.

Calvin Klein Customised Stretch Thong, £21, available at House of Fraser

Gilda & Pearl is your go-to for amping up the vamp. Designed and made in the UK, we plan on wearing this intricate bra under one of the brand's robes.

Gilda & Pearl Evelyn Bram, £74, available at Farfetch

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As one of the few sustainable bra brands, Lara Intimates makes all their underwear in their Soho studio using luxury surplus material. With the mission to make sure very women is wearing the correct size in cool and comfortable styles, this pastel blue piece is our favourite.

Lara Intimates Clio Bra in Blue, £72, available at Lara Intimates

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The Farm-To-Face Beauty Brands To Add To Your Bathroom Shelves Now

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Farm-to-face beauty has been a growing market for a few years now. As beauty fans demand greater transparency from their favourite brands, the process products go through before landing on our bathroom shelves is being laid bare. Switched-on consumers no longer want to know just what effect a formula will have on their skin, but also exactly where ingredients come from, their quality, and how they've been treated in laboratories.

While the rest of the industry plays catch-up, brands that have long championed this transparency are taking centre stage. Tata Harper is one such brand, harvesting all ingredients on the founder's Vermont land. "Traditionally, ‘farm-to-face’ means ingredients that come from local sources," Harper explains. "We have a factory on our farm so we make all products on site – this has been at the core of our DNA since we launched. We are obsessed with being the freshest possible."

Harper's eponymous brand is renowned for bottling the most beautiful ingredients. How does she define farm-to-face? "Other skincare products are made with synthetic ingredients that are cheaper and easier-to-work-with versions of natural ingredients," she explains. "They use a lot of preservatives, so when you're buying a product, it might already be two years old when you open the box. Each of our bottles have the freshest and highest performing ingredients possible. We strive to minimise production time, from farm to face."

For Mark Veeder, cofounder of Farmacy, the concept is also rooted in ingredients, which he harvests on his farm in upstate New York. "Our products are centred around powerful farmer-cultivated ingredients – namely our signature ingredient, echinacea greenenvy™ – and ensuring that the full potential of these ingredients is preserved through a meticulous process," he tells Refinery29. "We control our key, exclusive ingredients, from hand planting to employing organic growing methods, and we hand-harvest the root and apply science to extract, stabilise and supercharge the potent active ingredients."

Veeder also highlights the fact that tracing this journey, from yield to skin, is key because beauty fanatics are now savvier than ever. "They're paying more attention to what they eat and drink; they also want to know what’s in the products they use every day. There is an understanding from consumers that all of these things impact the end result of what they put on their faces and in their bodies."

As Harper says, we're "voting with our money" and right now it looks like we want clarity on everything from production methods to ingredient choices via packaging waste and ethical sourcing. Ahead, we've rounded up the beauty you can trace – click through for our favourite farm-to-face brands.

This L.A-based luxury skincare brand was founded by Craig and Julia Noik back in 2012. With the goal of capturing the wealth of natural botanicals found in South Africa's Cape Floral Kingdom (where 9,000 plant species grow), they've created a line of beauty products that distill the potent ingredients. Sourcing directly from each supplier, the founders regularly visit the origin of the plants and ensure each crop is as fresh as can be.

This cleanser, made up of moringa, marula and baobab oils is super lightweight but removes pretty much every trace of makeup. Thanks to the AHA fruit acids from grapefruit and sugar cane, it leaves skin glowing, too. It's paraben-, preservative- and chemical-free and smells divine.

African Botanics Pure Marula Cleansing Oil, £52, available at Cult Beauty

This story begins with Aunt Ilcsi – Ilona Molnar – who was taught about the benefits of natural skincare by her village herbalist in Hungary back in the 1950s. She began making her own products and by the '80s, had launched a family business and started training beauticians across the world.

Ilcsi Natural Cosmetics are now sold worldwide, but to keep the homegrown ethos of the brand, the ingredients are still harvested on an organic plantation. Now available at Cult Beauty, this stem cell hydration hit enhances the strength of your skin while delivering collagen for plumpness.

Ilcsi Natural Cosmetics Grape Stem Cell Moisturiser, £39, available at Ilcsi

"I want to create natural, fresh products that are effective," Harper explains. "We source only the highest quality ingredients and use the most innovative technology available, and include as much as we can in every formula to make our products as effective as possible."

This cleanser is a cult hit from the brand, thanks to the natural salicylic acid in willow bark gently buffing away dead skin cells. Alongside the pink clay that keeps blemishes at bay, and the apricot seed kernels that polish, this cleanser is harder working than most, leaving skin repaired and refreshed.

Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser, £39, available at Cult Beauty

All of Kypris' ingredients are farm-grown and the products are made on the brand's farm in Scottsdale, Arizona. "With more than 100,000 industrial chemicals in the consumer market, Kypris offers relief and divinely natural results," reads a statement on the brand's website. 100% natural and nature-derived, essential oils and plant extracts are packaged in the prettiest glass bottles.

This serum contains 15 active ingredients, from Hawaiian sea algae to rosehip seed, which aid cell renewal overnight. Peach extract and neroli flower soothe, so it's a perfect cocktail for damaged skin.

Kypris Moonlight Catalyst, £73, available at Selfridges

Founded by biochemist Dr Jürgen Klein and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, the aim of Jurlique (which is a combination of their first names) is to connect people with nature. Leaving their native Germany for south Australia's Adelaide Hills, they set up shop and began growing potent ingredients for their products.

From growing seeds in hothouses and planting them in nutrient-rich soil, to picking them by hand once cultivated, you can trace each step a Jurlique ingredient takes. The brand is famed for its roses, and this rich and hydrating mask is a luxe Sunday evening treat.

Jurlique Rose Moisture Plus Moisturising Cream Mask, £32.50, available at Look Fantastic

Veeder discovered a rare green-flowered plant at his garden in Sullivan County in 1999. "Green flowers in the plant world are extremely scarce, so it was a shock to find it. I sent the flower to several top horticultural labs to be tested, and the results showed a new variety of echinacea purpurea, containing a much higher concentration of immune-boosting and restorative properties," he explains. "I set about to create a skincare brand with the echinacea greenenvy™ as the centrepiece because it has been proven to be 300% stronger in the active ingredient and powerful antioxidant, cichoric acid, than any other echinacea purpurea."

This oily but light melting balm removes every last bit of makeup and leaves skin silky smooth. It's perfect for the city-dweller as it tackles the effects of pollution, plus ginger root oil gives a glowy boost.

Farmacy Green Clean, £32, available at Cult Beauty

Odacité began after founder Valerie Grandury fought breast cancer and sought to remove toxins from her life. She didn't want to sacrifice skincare performance, so set about creating her own blends, before word spread and demand grew. High quality ingredients are sourced from around the world, and products formulated in the brand's Californian lab.

This blemish-fighting serum penetrates deep into the pores, controlling the spread of bacteria with its antiseptic properties. It works as a preventative if a few drops are mixed into moisturiser daily, or can be rubbed onto target areas.

Odacité Bl+C Pimples Serum Concentrate (Black Cumin + Cajeput), £27.50, available at Space NK

Neal's Yard has long advocated transparency; one look at its website and you can trace the source of the majority of ingredients, from Kenyan-farmed tea tree essential oil to New Zealand beeswax. Ninety percent of the brand's products are manufactured in an energy-efficient eco factory in Dorset, where they also grow their own herbs.

Antioxidant milk thistle and aloe vera are combined with exfoliating rose seed powder in this polish, leaving skin smooth, glowing and hydrated.

Neal's Yard Rehydrating Rose Facial Polish, £18, available at Neal's Yard

Votary is the product of makeup artist Arabella Preston. Passionate about the skin-enhancing performance of natural oils and acids, she hand-blends every formula in the line. The brand only makes small batches of its products, using traceable and British ingredients.

Soothing tamanu oil and salicylic acid work to exfoliate the top layer of skin, penetrating skin and speeding up recovery from angry blemishes.

Votary Blemish Rescue Oil, £35, available at Liberty

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Beyoncé Wore Glossier To The Grammys

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It only took four short years for Glossier to become a household name for millennials everywhere and for your entire Instagram feed to be loaded with Glossier Girls. What, you ask, is a Glossier Girl? Well, we don't like to stereotype, but she's in her twenties, has the bright skin of an 11-year-old who has never heard of hormonal acne or under-eye bags, and wouldn't be caught dead in full-coverage matte foundation and liquid lipstick.

It's not news to anyone that the Grammys are one of the shows at which celebrities take big beauty risks — for shock value, fun, or to make an important statement. Most importantly, perhaps, it's also the show that Beyoncé is most likely to be at. And although it took a little longer to spot the Queen in the crowd tonight, once we did, we were stunned by her blonde braids, golden highlight, and bold purple lip. But we were even more shocked when we learned the products behind the makeup look were none other than Glossier.

A brand that boasts a "skin first, makeup second" motto is the last we'd suspect one of the biggest superstars in the world to choose for a highly-photographed night out. But according to her longtime makeup artist Sir John's Instagram, it's exactly what was used. “I wanted her skin to look flawless but not overdone so I used Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint in Dark and Deep. I then used Glossier Skin Tint in Rich to contour. I’m loving a coral blush at the moment as it really brightens up the complexion, I blended Glossier Cloud Paint in Beam then added Glossier Cloud Paint in Haze to the contoured areas for extra dimension. I finished complexion with L’Oreal True Match Lumi Liquid Glow for a fresh natural look,” Sir John explained.

“I groomed and shaped Beyonce’s brows using Glossier Boy Brow in Brown. Her brows are super accentuated as she is wearing sunglasses throughout the ceremony, so I wanted them to look super strong. I kept with the Black Panther theme for her eyes and did a natural feline flick cat eye. I lined under the eye using a brown kohl eyeliner and used a fierce black inky liquid eyeliner on the top. To finish off the eye, I was lucky enough to be one of the first people to try a new and exciting product from Glossier. Stay tuned to hear more but I LOVED using it on Bey all weekend... We finished the look with a super strong magenta black lipstick. I used YSL Tatouage Couture Lipstain and it offset the soft fresh cheeks and eyes perfectly.”

Even better, Glossier was behind every single look leading up to the awards show for Bey, including the Roc Nation Pre-Grammys Brunch yesterday in New York City. The brand recently posted a photo to its Instagram teasing a new product that she wore, along with the caption: "Beyoncé wears ___ in ___ (coming soon)✨👀." The comments immediately exploded with speculation: It must be an eyeshadow, a glittery one no less. In fact, Refiner y29 repor ted the launch almost a year ago. Now, it looks like the magical, soon-to-be sold-out formula is closer than we thought. Even better, it's Beyoncé-approved.

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The 7 Goopiest Things That Happened At Gwyneth's Wellness Summit

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People may chuckle at the ludicrous health claims and advice espoused by Gwyneth Paltrow and her Goop empire, but she has just as many loyal acolytes and the "Goopies", as they call themselves, were out in full force at the Goop Health Summit in New York City this weekend.

Tickets to the event completely sold out and the star-studded guest list included the likes of Drew Barrymore, Chelsea Handler, Bryce Dallas Howard, writer Gillian Flynn and former Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Elaine Welteroth.

It was the company's first such summit on the US east coast – the inaugural event was held in #wellness central, LA, last June – but it still managed to rank a solid nine out of 10 on the bonkers scale. These were some of the Goopiest things about it.

The ticket price

Paltrow may be popular, but no one – not even she – would pretend she's in touch with reality, hence the jaw-dropping cost to attend. The cheapest "turmeric"-level tickets were $650, while the upper-tier "ginger" tickets were a truly kegel-tightening $2,000. Accessible, it is not.

The swag bags

Turmeric guests were gifted with a goodie bag "filled with $1,000+ worth of Goop gear and beauty and wellness swag" while the ginger attendees received a gift bag containing $3,000+ worth of the stuff. We hope there were at least a few diamond-encrusted vaginal jade eggs thrown in for good measure.

Slippers

Guests were made to hand in their shoes at the entrance and swap them for a pair of fluffy slippers, People reported. Luxe AF.

The food

Would a wellness summit be a wellness summit without chia seeds? There was turmeric chia seed pudding aplenty at this one. Also on the menu throughout the day was vegan charcoal ice cream (which one journalist described as "delicious", so who are we to judge?), Moon Juice, avocado toast (natch), a citrus salad with tahini-yoghurt dressing and a lunch of roasted delicata squash, kale salad with yoghurt and gluten-free tamales.

Psychics communicating with the dead

The LA wellness set are dead into the supernatural (see what I did there) so there was plenty of spiritual stuff on offer, from psychic mediums communicating with dead relatives to Tarot card readings and 10 hours of meditation. One medium, Laura Lynne Jackson, even reportedly told the audience that "death doesn’t exist".

“I think we like the in-between of data and the unexplained,” Paltrow is reported to have told the audience. “There isn’t always a double-blind study that can explain it.”

The "experts"

Goop has often been criticised for espousing unscientific nonsense and making dubious claims, and there were several self-styled "experts" in attendance who are known for their controversial medical views. Among them was Dr. Kelly Brogan, who wrote a blogpost in 2014 in which she said the link between HIV and AIDS was disputable and that cholesterol didn't necessarily cause heart disease.

Brogan has also rallied against drugs companies in the past, claiming that they're brainwashing the public for profit, and while she didn't explicitly say this at the summit, she did speak more broadly about the dangers of medicine. Another questionable speaker was nutritionist Deanna Minich, who reportedly told the audience that eating green food could reduce grief.

The vaginal jade eggs (!)

Goop has become as closely associated with vaginal jade eggs as it has with vaginal steaming, which sadly doesn't seem to have been offered as part of the weekend's festivities. The 2017 phenomenon – essentially, stones that you stick in your vagina – Goop's associates claim, "help[s] cultivate sexual energy, clear chi pathways in the body, intensify femininity, and invigorate our life force." The jury's still out on that one, so if you're one of the guests who spent upwards of $50 on an egg, do get in touch.

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This Secret Code Will Get An Engagement Ring Through Airport Security

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If you've gone to the effort of planning a secret marriage proposal during a romantic minibreak or exotic far-flung holiday, the last thing you'd want is to be rumbled at the airport on the way there.

Engagement rings aren't cheap, with the average in the UK costing over a grand, so you're going to want to keep it in your hand luggage – but this brings a very real risk of setting off the metal detector and having it whipped out in front of your future fiancée. Some people attach a note to the outside of the box saying that there's an engagement ring inside, but this is hardly a foolproof strategy.

So loved-up travellers will want to thank the big softies at East Midlands Airport, which has just launched a service to help anyone trying to smuggle an engagement ring through security without spoiling the surprise – just in time for Valentine's Day, the Nottingham Post reported.

Anyone hoping to pop the question can contact the airport ahead of their travels and receive a "secret code" which, once uttered to security staff on arrival, will ensure the ring holder is directed to a separate security lane where their belongings will be searched discreetly and away from their SO.

“It would put a big damper on someone’s meticulously planned romantic trip if their big surprise was revealed even before they’ve boarded the plane," said Matthew Quinney, the airport's head of security. “Arguably, there are more romantic places to be proposed to than in our security hall." (Understatement of the year?)

He continued: “So, out of courtesy to those who have been planning this moment for weeks or months, we have put in measures to ensure we’re not the cause of failed marriage proposals."

The initiative will run from 12th February and will cover all flights. To get the code, aspiring romantics should email love@eastmidlandsairport.com ahead of their trip or DM @EMA_Airport on Twitter. An airport security rule that makes our lives more convenient? Whatever next.

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What The Newly Discovered "Kiss Hormone" Means For Our Sex Lives

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We may not generally talk about it openly in our sex-obsessed culture, but a low libido is a worry for many people. There are so many potential factors behind it – from stress and poor body image to underlying medical issues – that there are currently no widely approved ways of treating it, either.

But scientists have just made a huge discovery that sheds light on how the brain controls sex – and could potentially be game-changing for women with low sexual desire.

The study, published in the journal Nature Communications, identified a brain chemical, known as kisspeptin, that controls both attraction to the opposite sex and sexual behaviour. The hormone, dubbed the 'kiss hormone', has been previously associated with sexual behaviour (specifically puberty and fertility), but the new findings suggest it also drives our attraction to the opposite sex.

This means the same molecule, kisspeptin, controls puberty, fertility, attraction and sex. (It's unclear how or whether the findings of the study, which was conducted on female mice, could explain attraction and sexual behaviour in same-sex relationships.)

The research team, from Belgium's Liège University and Saarland University in Germany, said they were optimistic that the discovery could be useful in treating people with psychosexual disorders, such as low sex drive.

"There are currently no good treatments available for women suffering from low sexual desire," said Professor Julie Bakker, who leads the Laboratory of Neuroendocrinology at Liège University. She continued: "The discovery that kisspeptin controls both attraction and sexual desire opens up exciting new possibilities for the development of treatments for low sexual desire," reported EurekAlert.

We already know that, in many animals, "sexual behaviour is timed to occur with ovulation to ensure the highest possible chance of fertilisation and therefore, continuation of the species," said Ulrich Boehm, professor of experimental and clinical pharmacology and toxicology at Saarland University.

"Until now, little was known about how the brain ties together ovulation, attraction and sex. Now we know that a single molecule – kisspeptin – controls all of these aspects through different brain circuits running in parallel with one another."

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What You Need To Remember When You Get Angry

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The weather is crappy, you're stuck indoors with your extended family, and there's most likely plenty of booze around. If there ever were a setting more finely tuned for familial blowups, it has yet to be discovered.

As tempting as it may be to get into a politically tinged screaming match with your aunt, it's probably better in the long term if you resist that urge — or at least know how to handle those emotions when they bubble to the surface.

Rather than gritting your teeth through yet another frustrating family dinner, you can arrive this year with a few chill-out tricks up your sleeve. We spoke with Rachel McDavid, LMFT, a marriage and family therapist based in New York City, about how you can actually process and express your anger healthily.

Read on for our step-by-step guide to dealing with your anger, from the moment you feel your jaw clench up to when you're ready to cool off.

Take a break.

When you notice tensions rising, it's time to excuse yourself. "Take a walk, go to another room, or do something to help you refocus and calm down," McDavid says. Simply removing yourself from the situation, even if it means leaving the dinner table, can be extremely helpful. Plus, you can't respond in a way that escalates the conflict if you aren't in the room.

Breathe.

Once you've found a place where you can be alone, McDavid recommends trying a calming breathing exercise to help you cool off: Inhale through your nose for five seconds, hold your breath for two seconds, exhale slowly out of your mouth for eight to 10 seconds, then repeat. This exercise "will both calm down your nervous system and take you out of your thinking mind, because you need to count," she says, adding that the last thing you want to do is linger on your anger.

Try on a new point of view.

Once you're more relaxed, you might be able to think more clearly about your conflict. McDavid offers a few questions to ask yourself: "Can you look at the situation a little more objectively? What are you needing — to be heard or understood? What might the other person be needing — could they possibly be needing something similar?"

Focusing on each other's needs, and not how you may have conveyed them in the heat of the moment, can remove any lingering emotions from the situation. This is the first step toward understanding the person who upset you.

Make a plan to talk — or not.

McDavid says whether you talk things out or not depends on the situation: "Sometimes we tell others things to assuage our guilt, not thinking about the impact to them." If you're on the fence about approaching your relative after a blowup, think about what the end result of your conversation will be. "Consider if telling would be beneficial," McDavid says. "Would it make you feel more connected, or would it be disconnecting?"

Be sure to take timing into account, too. Maybe your feelings will be better expressed in a one-on-one setting, far away from the family table. Or, consider writing them a note that allows you to speak your piece, and pencils in a peace-making coffee meetup another time.

Take timing into account.

Maybe your feelings will be better expressed in a one-on-one setting, far away from the family table. Or, consider writing them a note that allows you to speak your piece, and pencil in a peace-making coffee meet up another time.

Own up.

If you deem it necessary to talk things out ASAP, be prepared to take responsibility for what you said. "Be accountable," McDavid says. "Let them know what was going on for you at the time you got angry and explain how you would like to start again." She also says to use "I" statements to avoid sounding too accusatory, and to speak only from your own experience — don't try to explain away how the other person was feeling at the time.

If the dinner ends and you still feel wound up, try that breathing exercise again, and, if nothing else, remind yourself that the visit won't last forever.

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Here's A Peek At Gigi Hadid’s Final Tommy Hilfiger Collection

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Come February, Tommy Hilfiger and his model muse/guest designer Gigi Hadid will be taking their joint label, Tommy x Gigi, on the road once more. In December, Hilfiger announced that their 'see now, buy now' collaboration, as well as TommyNow, the designer’s experimental umbrella of shows that brought the Tommy Pier (New York), Tommyland (Los Angeles), and RockCircus (London) to life, is heading to Milan Fashion Week. We’re going to go ahead and assume it’ll be a pretty big deal — especially considering this is the final collection from the two.

“My vision for TommyNow was to create a global platform that we could take on tour to bring our show experience to new audiences around the world,” Hilfiger tells WWD. “It’s about the fusion of fashion, entertainment and pop culture, and experiences, performances, and inspiring interactions that are designed around our consumers. As one of the fashion capitals of the world, Milan is the perfect place to celebrate our next TommyNow show.”

The SS18 collection is all about speed — from Hilfiger’s love of motorsports to Hadid’s fast-paced lifestyle — and features timeless classics with athletic colour-blocking in red, white, and blue. According to a press release, “silhouette is mix-and-match with oversized pieces combining with super-skinny designs for a strong and confident new take on race-track style.”

When Hadid introduced her first collection, she told Vogue: “Creatively speaking, it’s something that’s really true to my style,” of the collaboration, which made its debut in full at Tommy Hilfiger's New York Fashion Week show in September 2016. “I wanted it to be something that when people look at it, they know I was the one who designed it, and that it’s something I would genuinely wear?” That sort of intuition has paid off, as the Tommy x Gigi collections have sold out in record time — sometimes before the show is even over.

On Monday, the collection was released on Tommy.com, where you can peek behind-the-scenes images as well as determine which items to add to your wish list to make for a smooth checkout come February 28. Click ahead to see the full lookbook ahead of its debut in Milan.

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8 Apps Every Astrology Enthusiast Needs On Their Phone

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All too often, keeping up with all the movements and shifts in astrology feels like playing an endless game of catch up. Missing out on the umpteenth Mercury retrograde or full moon can make any horoscope fan wish they could have all that info at their fingertips — literally.

Luckily, there's a whole realm of astrology-related mobile apps to explore. From ones that deliver straightforward daily horoscopes to ultra-informative apps that can turn a beginner into an expert, there's an app out there for every kind of astrological enthusiast.

Ahead, we've rounded up our absolute favourite astro apps. (And if your phone still doesn't feel spiritually complete after browsing our picks, check out our guide to more witch-friendly apps here.)

Astrology Zone

Susan Miller's monthly horoscopes, informative videos, and Twitter updates are at your fingertips in this app. The renowned astrologer goes deep with her thorough descriptions of the planets' activities, making the app's content great for an immersive read on your commute or with your morning coffee.

Download it if you want a 'scope that leaves no astrological stone unturned.

Co—Star

Powered by NASA data and the insights of professional astrologers, this highly customisable app keeps you up to date on the planets' movements — and what those transits mean for you. Plus, its sharing features allow you to swap astrological info with friends, providing they have the app, too.

Download it if astrology is part of your aesthetic.

The DailyHoroscope

If you need your daily dose of astrology the same way others crave their morning coffee, this is the app for you. A single tap brings you to your daily 'scope, and you can even set timed reminders to avoid missing a single day's cosmic update.

Download it if you want to stay up to date with the stars, but you still want to keep things simple.

TimePassages

Info on birth charts and specific planetary signs? This app has it. Up-to-the-minute transit updates? This app has that, too. Regular horoscopes? Yep, you can find those in TimePassages. This app's near-encyclopaedic scope is an enticing rabbit hole for anyone who's ready to go beyond their sun sign.

Download it if you're ready to begin your astrological education in earnest.

Mercury Retrograde

From the retrograde experts at FindYourFate.com comes this handy app that keeps you in-the-know about the state of Mercury at any moment, whether it's harmlessly direct, about to enter retrograde, or in the middle of a post-retrograde shadow period.

Download it if you're done trying to make plans during a Mercury retrograde.

Astrostyle

This all-in-one app from the Astrotwins lets you check your daily, weekly, and monthly 'scopes, then cross-reference your star forecast with your sign's (or someone else's) romance style. In other words, this app is a stand-in for an astrologically savvy big sister.

Download it if you want a comprehensive one-stop shop for your astro needs.

iLuna

Not only does this app help you keep up with the current lunar phase, it also alerts you to the moon's position in the wheel of Zodiac. So, whether you're strictly interested in the energy of this month's lunation, or you want ample time to prep before la luna enters your sign, iLuna will keep you in the loop.

Download it if you hate missing a full moon — for the Insta and ritual benefits.

Astro Gold

Made for professional astrologers, this app costs a whopping $39.99. But the accuracy and detail that comes with that price tag just might be worth it to you. Not only can you draw up birth charts, solar return charts, and Saturn return charts — you can save and edit them, too. This app is perfect if you already know a bit about planetary transits and how to read a chart, but you want to go even deeper.

Download it if you need to know someone's moon, rising, and planetary signs at a moment's notice — and you're willing to pay for that immediacy.

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Yes, The Grammys Were A Bad Night For Women — But Especially Women of Colour

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Alessia Cara was the only woman to win a major award during the televised show at the 60th annual Grammy awards. The only one. The show made it astoundingly clear to nearly 20 million viewers just how big of an inequality problem the Grammys and the music industry have when it comes to women. The disparity came as no surprise, of course, particularly after a recent study by USC Annenberg's Dr. Stacy Smith revealed some shocking statistics, like the fact that 90% of Grammy nominees over the past five years have been male.

But even more dismal was the lack of recognition for female artists of colour. After last year's backlash when Beyoncé's Lemonade lost Album of the Year to Adele's 25 (which Adele herself was shocked over) and the awards show's snubs of Rihanna's Anti, music fans and insiders alike hoped that this would be the year minority women finally got some long-awaited celebration of their contributions to popular music. (After all, a Black woman has not won the Album of the Year award since Lauryn Hill in 1999.)

Instead of being a celebratory night for women of color in music, however, the Grammy's were, in fact, the complete opposite.

While articles and press releases were quick to point out how diverse the nominees list was this year because no white men were nominated for categories like Album and Record of the Year, there were few women nominated — and no women of colour in any of the major categories. Not one. The only woman of colour to accept an actual award on stage was Rihanna when she joined Kendrick Lamar to take home the "Best Rap/Sung Rap Performance" for her feature on his track.

And yet, the conversation following the Grammy awards has been largely focused on the music industry's gender inequality problem, instead of its diversity problem. It seems the entertainment industry and media news cycles are only capable of addressing one problematic issue at a time. When thinkpieces and social media hone in on importance of the #MeToo and Time's Up movements, the conversations surrounding diversity often get lost. Last night, for instance, Twitter delivered the new trending hashtag #GrammysSoMale. But now that gender inequality is finally at the top of everyone's minds, it feels like diversity inequality has taken a back seat.

Why can't we talk about both?

The few women of colour who were nominated this year didn't receive any support from the Recording Academy. SZA, 2017's biggest breakout music star, was undeniably snubbed. She was the most nominated woman at the awards show with five nods, yet she was shut out entirely, most shockingly losing the Best New Artist category to Alessia Cara. Now, there's no arguing Cara was incredibly deserving of the award; her music and message have made major waves over the past few years, and she's always a champion for women. In fact, last night on the red carpet she passionately told Refinery29 that we all need to "speak for women that don't have a platform" and remind everyone that "we will not be silenced," wise statements that should be applauded.

But as talented as Cara is, her debut album dropped in 2015. SZA, meanwhile, took 2017 by storm and was by and large the music world's predicted Best New Artist winner thanks to the June release of her debut album, Ctrl. The record debuted at number three on the Billboard charts and was listed as either the best or second-best album on year-end lists everywhere from The New York Times to Time; enthusiastically vocal celebrity fans ranged from Diddy to Paramore, Solange, Issa Rae, and even Cara herself. This was SZA's moment.

And then there was Cardi B, one of music's most buzzed about artists of the past year. In 2017, she became the first female rapper to top the Billboard chart in 19 years and has spent 29 weeks in the Billboard Hot 100 with "Bodak Yellow." But she lost to Kendrick Lamar in both the Best Rap Performance and Best Rap Song categories during the non-televised pre-show. Lamar is hands down a more talented lyricist, and "Humble" was itself a huge track this year, and an important one both culturally and politically. But with Lamar having seven Grammys under his belt, it felt like Cardi deserved to make history by becoming the first female rapper to win either one of those categories. And not just because she's a woman, or a woman of colour, but because 2017 was the year of "Bodak Yellow," and both the song and the artist deserved an honour from the Grammys. Yet while she wasn't good enough to win, she was good enough to deliver the Grammys one of their most-anticipated performances of the night, outshining Bruno Mars when she joined him to rap her verse on the remix of "Finesse."

Many viewers were not surprised at the snubs for women of colour, since the Grammy's has a complicated history with Black artists and Black women, especially, often offering them up as entertainers during the show to draw in viewership but opting out of giving them accolades for their music. It's why many lovers of hip-hop and R&B skip watching the Grammys all together, and why events like Essence's Black Women In Music and BET's Black Girls Rock exist — because if the Recording Academy won't acknowledge Black female artists, Black women will do it themselves. Even female artists of colour in the music industry blatantly acknowledge the lack of respect. Singer India Arie told Refinery29 on the red carpet that she's not surprised female artists of colour at the Grammy's haven't fared much better since her own disappointing shutout year in 2002.

"I am a person who has been wounded by the politics of the music industry," she said. "Not just because the winners have been mostly men, but I've also been overlooked as a woman of colour. The first time I came to the Grammys, I was nominated for seven. I didn't win one. A lot of the reason I didn't win was — well, because it was political. I've been watching [the Grammys] over the years from the inside, how the music industry draws so many things along lines of race. Even when it's the biggest stars, like it'll be Beyoncé and Adele, and it still comes down to race a lot. But that's the world we live in, right? I think the world is slowly changing, and the industry will too. But it's a slow change."

Naturally, dissecting why women of colour are not winning awards leads us to look at who is actually voting for the winners. But the Recording Academy has never released a demographic breakdown of its voting members (Refinery29 has requested it multiple times over the years). Based on the qualifications required to be a voter, however, the odds are pretty high that the Academy is largely white and male. According to Grammys.org, to be a voting member you must be a dues-paying Recording Academy member and a music industry professional with “creative or technical credits on at least six commercially released tracks.” And according to Smith's inclusivity study, just two women from an underrepresented racial/ethnic group worked as producers across 300 popular songs from 2012, 2015, and 2017.

"There is an epidemic of invisibility for women of colour in this important creative role," Smith says. "Our data did not speak to why there is a lack of representation, but one explanation to consider may be the makeup of the Recording Academy, much like we look at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences for the Oscar nominations. Having data on the demographic composition of the Academy is crucial to understanding what might be driving recognition through nominations and voting."

So the obvious question after all of this conversation is how, exactly, to solve the music industry's inclusivity problem for women of colour, both behind the scenes and in front of it. In a tone-deaf statement after the awards show, Recording Academy President Neil Portnow suggested that, "Women who have the creativity in their hearts and souls, who want to be musicians, who want to be engineers, producers, and want to be part of the industry on the executive level" should "step up, because I think they would be welcome." As if there aren't millions of women out there who have been "stepping up" for decades, writing songs, studying music, submitting demos, uploading original music on YouTube, auditioning, making mixtapes, and doing whatever it takes to get their music out there. The problem is that so many of them — and women of colour, in particular — lack the tools and access that those with more privilege have been afforded.

"For systemic change to occur and to see more women at all levels of the music industry, artists, content creators, and executives at the labels all need to work together to ensure access and opportunity are available to all talent, not just those that belong to certain groups," Smith says. "As we tackle the biases in recruitment and hiring in both the business and artistic side, we hopefully will begin to see change occur across the industry that reflects the world we actually live in."

The moment has arrived for the entertainment industry to truly take action to make sure the time is up for all kinds of mistreatment, invisibility, and inequality. And until that happens, the bigger question might be whether or not the Grammys are still relevant to our music culture at all.

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